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Archive for July, 2009

D&W

Dan and Whit’s is a real general store.  Their slogan—“If we don’t have it, you don’t need it”—combines the ideal of American bounty with a New England puritan disapproval of things.  Shopping in the store is a desultory, serendipitous ramble.  Hardware can be found hard by the lotion.  Cheese isn’t far from ski gloves and board games.

J in D&W
Their hardwood floors are warped with age.  Their common sense slips into irony (there’s a hand-scrawled sign on the green door between the deli and the house-paint that says “this is the green door”).  Their pride is in being entirely unpretentious.  There was a collective huff when the store started carrying Carhartt work clothes last year.  (The brand was seen as too hoity toity.)  But they do succeed in maintaining their own brand of mish-mash pragmatic back-to-basics authenticity, even while carrying Champlain Chocolate (next to the Blow-Pops), top shelf wine, and retro wooden toys for the upscale toddler.
dragonfly
What was this gigantic dragonfly doing there?  It must have lost its way between Main Street and the Bloody Brook.

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My cousin, Michelle, and I teamed up for this one:

http://theepi-cure.com/2009/07/07/purple-is-the-new-green/

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Weed Semantics

“I grow some edible weeds,” I was told by my new friend, Diane.   I love the oxymoronic concept of cultivated weeds.  Weeds are, by definition, the enemies of cultivated plants.  They compete, strangle, are overly macho.

Or are they?  Some are delicious.  Toss them in a salad, or do a quick search in the blogosphere for wonderful ways to cook them.

Lamb’s quarters, chickweed, dandelion, lovage, sorrel, ramps, purslane, fiddlehead ferns,  nettles…

These weeds of New England speak to us in the Anglo-Saxon Latinate of foraging colonials with a fervor for naming New World and introducing Old World species.

Natural. Invasive. Cultivated. Edible. (Rediscovered.) Free. Gourmet. Weeds.

When you first meet someone, you only know three or so things about her, or him.  I like Diane because she plants edible weeds, because she looks natural in red lipstick at the beach, and because she is a painter.  Here is her bug mural, at the playground in Truro:

Diane's wall

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peas ricotta

Organic ricotta, fresh peas, local applewood smoked bacon, pasta, parmigiano-reggiano.

Sigh…

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Named for the wily, widespread species of bird, Killdeer Farmstand, on Route 5 in Norwich, is one of my favorite places.  The organic farm of the same name, just a few miles away on the Vermont bank of the Connecticut River, supplies the most dependable abundance of produce.  We stop there almost daily.  Yesterday, it was our first stop after arriving back in VT from Cape Cod.  The first raspberries were in, along with the first green garlic, and there were loads of new potatoes, zucchini, squash, peas, a vast variety of greens.  Scapes will be gone soon, but they still had a big basketful, so I bought a bunch and made more scape mashed potatoes.  Yum!  Sometimes we make an entirely Killdeer meal.  The farmstand also offers Misty Knoll organic chicken, lots of local cheeses and ice creams, some meat, King Arthur bread, and cookies.   Soon, they’ll have sweet corn.

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The oysters we had the other night in P-town were getting spawny.  It’s summer–a cool one, but still summer, so the oysters have lost their briny, idiosyncratic edge, the flavor that marks them as a certain species in a certain water.  They’ve grown flabby and creamy, inevitably fertile.  I’m glad there are cultivated things that haven’t become completely unseasonal, indistinguishable month to month.  We’ve tried to achieve it with tomatoes and strawberries, and haven’t.

I do love Wellfleet oysters, but the oysters I long for are those from Tomales Bay.  The oyster company out there in Marin County, called Hog Island after the bay island once peopled with pigs, was one of our favorite destinations in the Bay Area.  We’d park the car just off the narrow slip of road along the bay, hear the crunch of oyster shells under the tires, feel the breeze off the water, walk just a few yards to the table of sorting tubs right on the shore, and order 50 or 100, depending on who was coming over later.

Kumamotos–which fit into the circle of your hand’s ok sign–, Sweetwaters–Pacific essence…

Sometimes we’d hike, or stay over, and wade in the water on the opposite side of the long, skinny bay.

Shucking, back in our birdhouse apartment in the Berkeley hills, Peter would find an extra dozen or two.  Shhh… don’t tell!

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jack lob

We spent the Fourth weekend on the Cape, and, for me, it was an absolute festival of shellfish, topped off with a feast of fish. (More on all that to come…) We were welcomed after the long drive with an easy going dinner at a new fish joint in Provincetown—Townsend’s.  My step-father-in-law, Curtis, is a selectman in Truro, a big talker, and all around friendly guy, so of course he knew the owner.  We shared the big family table in the corner with Becky Townsend (and daughters), who had recently coordinated, with Curtis, the creation of the coolest playground we’ve ever been to, in Truro.  We ordered platefuls of the freshest local goodies around: day boat scallops, grilled and seasoned only with salt and pepper; lobster salad, fried clams, two dozen oysters—all of which had been gathered in that day.

oysters
We also had large baskets of fries, and I celebrated the summeriness of it all with a gin & soda—served, according to lobster-shack aesthetic, in a plastic cup.

On the wall behind the banquette where I sat, there were two representative family portraits.  That’s Chris, the owner, on the right, as a young guy with a huge fish.  And there on the left is his grandmother.  What style!

townsends

We got to view the seven-pounder:

lobster
The weekend was really like one long meal.  There were fresh raspberries growing in Anne & Curtis’ back yard, and we ate them with breakfast, for snacks, for dessert.  Jack ate them right off the bushes, and weighed down my colander with his little hand, like Sal and the little bear in Blueberries for Sal.

raspberries
On Friday, we had a leisurely picnic lunch with friends, finished with what was to be vanilla bean ice cream but was served as a stubbornly, meltingly delicious semi fredo.

Several hours later, after hot sun, strong wind, and frigid water at the beach, we were, miraculously, hungry again.

beach
We shared three-pound lobsters, accompanied just with butter, bread, a Boston lettuce salad, and wine.

Then we ran after fire flies, watched an episode of Wallander, and collapsed into bed with cool breezes blowing in the windows all night.  I love pulling up the covers on a cool summer night.

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It’s a comfort, shaping meatballs.  Only my fingertips touch, shape, nudge, they are so delicate. Unlike the muscle and torque involved in kneading bread, the pressure here has to be slight.  The way you might hold an infant’s foot.

Yes, I know. I’m talking about raw meat.  But I love making these meatballs in part because I use a recipe from a friend I’ve lost touch with, and they remind me of the dinners he cooked for us–at once so scrupulous and so lax.  Jonathan was exact about ingredients, cooking temps and times, the composition of courses.  And relaxed about the way the evening stretched late into the night, about lipstick marks on wine glasses–from previous drinkers–about the terrifying mess in the kitchen.

We had a delicious rivalry.  He would cook us a multi-course meal with wines to match, and we’d follow up the next weekend at our apartment, just up the hill from his, on Euclid Ave. in Berkeley.  It went on, as we attempted amicably to one-up each other.

The meatballs were one of the best meals.  Here is his basic recipe, as I remember it, which came from his Nonna, his Italian grandmother.

Jonathan’s Meatballs

1 lb. ground beef
1 egg
1/2 eggshell water
1/3 c. fresh bread crumbs
small handful chopped parsley
4 cloves garlic, minced
plenty of salt and freshly ground black pepper or some red pepper flakes for spice

Combine all ingredients, and shape gently into meatballs, either large or small.  Cook over moderate heat in an oiled or buttered pan, turning occasionally, until done.  Serve immediately.

Tonight, I had the luxury of local grass fed ground beef, local fresh eggs, and of course local herbs.  I substituted blanched garlic scapes for the garlic cloves.


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