Thanks to our friend Rena, who lived in Florence for a year, we had some insider recommendations about where to eat. The most interesting (and delicious) place, by far, was Mario’s, which serves only lunch.
The menu is scribbled on a piece of paper, and is replete with meat. The seating is first come, first served, and is “con l’altro”—with each other. Three parties of two might share a big table. Everyone sits on little wooden stools. The kitchen runs right alongside the dining area, and the inevitably loud conversations are punctuated by the bang-bang-bangs of the cleaver on the butcher block, chopping up the next set of lunches.
We also went to what many agree is the best gelato maker in Florence: Vivoli.
I know I should have tried the cinnamon-orange, but I couldn’t resist my favorite nutty flavors.
The other high point in dining was Tranvai, a restaurant constructed out of an old tram-station, with excellent food. They offered offals and brain, but we stuck to slightly more familiar cuts… veal and rabbit.
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