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Archive for July, 2009

After a satisfyingly lazy afternoon on the beach, here in Westport, Mass., Peggy and I went to the fish market.  It was a bare bones kind of operation, but all of the fish and shellfish was glisteningly fresh and abundant.  We decided on striped bass.  On the way home, we stopped at the farm stand [...]

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Remember what I said about Deborah’s extraordinary vegetarian cooking?  She was gracious enough to send me her recipe for Swiss chard tart.  Here’s what she says: As for chard tart, tip of the hat to Patricia Wells, from whose recipe this jumps off with a few modifications–it’s actually an olive-oil crust: The crust is l [...]

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After spending the weekend driving up and down mountains in the Catskills, crossing rivers with names like Beaverkill and Deepkill, where flyfishermen waded in the sparkling water, and eating a late breakfast at Sweet Sue’s in Phoenicia—a destination breakfast spot for Brooklynites, where we had inch-thick mixed berry pancakes with maple syrup, poppyseed swirled challah [...]

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We’re roving through rural New York this long weekend.  After driving through the Green Mountains of Vermont, over countless hills and through countless valleys, we came into the Catskills with its countless rivers, having passed through the little towns where my mother’s mother and mother’s father were born and raised—Kingston, Callicoon Center—and where they married [...]

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I spotted a forager at the Farmers’ Market in Hanover.  He was busy behind another farmer’s stand, borrowing the scale to weigh his haul of early chanterelles.   He divvied out the cache of beatifully gouda-colored fungi into straw baskets.  $8 each.  6 hours of foraging had yielded six baskets, he told me.  I’m sure [...]

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Pork chops, like buttercups, are my Proustian objects.  At the taste of a chop, especially one brined in cider or served with applesauce, I’m back on Old City Falls Road, at the big yellow house in Strafford, Vermont.  Up the steep hill behind the house and barn—a catch-all space housing tools, lumber, a VW bus, [...]

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Is that some kind of summer-in-Vermont activity for kids?  Do you ride it or eat it? Actually, you drink it!  It’s a red ale brewed by Jasper Murdock’s at the Norwich Inn, on Main St. in Norwich, Vermont.  The microbrewery makes English style ales which are served only in the little pub at the back [...]

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This is a delicious side dish which is also very pretty.  These beets are sweet, as their name implies, and decorative, like Victorian stencilling.  Slice them horizontally to see the concentric pink and cream circles.  These organic beets are from Killdeer Farm. Dolce di Chioggia and Carrots a small side for 4 Slice 8-10 Dolce [...]

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We had the most delicious meal last night.  Sauteed broccoli raab, beet greens, and green garlic from Killdeer, polenta, and spicy grass fed beef sausages.  After our morning with the Jersey cows at Thistle Hill in North Pomfret, Vermont, yesterday, we drove up and down the winding roads and along River Road in search of [...]

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I spent the morning in the Pomfret, Vermont hills among cows and affable, talkative farmers happy to have me help to spread their gospel: eat locally and sustainably, and preserve the traditions of good food and respect for the land.  I’ll save Cloudland Farm for another post, because my visit to Thistle Hill Farm was [...]

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